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Awesome Beijing drivers. Everyone in this picture is moving. Scary |
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Typical Beijing sidewalk. I love this! Look at how solid and used those bikes are! |
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Pretty girl, pretty water, pretty pagoda |
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This one is just for you, Katie Hass! A genuine Chinese Kung-Fu Panda! |
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Ooh, wanna get me some of THESE in Colorado Springs. Love the bike culture in Beijing. |
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Little Happy Anime-style police warning |
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Another awesome Beijing vehicle |
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I just loved the look of this pagoda |
(Internet back - posting what I wrote over the weekend)
Friday, October 26, 2012
I thought I would sleep like a rock all night, given how
exhausted we were from traveling 28 hours, but as usual, the hotel air did its
obnoxious trick and I woke before 2am with congestion and a raging
headache. A few essential oils, a couple
ibuprofen and an hour later, I finally fell asleep for a good 4-hour
block.
At 7am we got up and ready, and ate breakfast in the
hotel. Breakfast was a buffet of a few
familiar things like bacon, Rice Crispies and toast, and a lot of less-familiar
things like spicy sautéed bok choy, congee, salt vegetables and hawthorne
juice. It was awesome. There were things I skipped that I look
forward to trying tomorrow. We met up
with the rest of our group at 8:30a and headed out to the HuTong.
On the way, our guide George gave us some of his awesome
advice and perspective. We love
George. I’m going to put all of his
“talks” together in another post.
THE HUTONG DISTRICT
We went to the HuTong district, which is a preserved
historical area of the elite “Old Beijing”.
They are small, now run-down neighborhoods with narrow alleys. The HuTongs go back 800 years to the
Mongolian Dynasty. The Mongols saw the Han
people’s tribal homes that the rich and court officials lived in – walled-in
tic-tac-toe blocks of eight houses with a well in the center and called them a
hurt (rhymes with yert), meaning “water”.
The Han people (native Chinese) changed this to HuTong.
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Lashi and Antigone's rickshaw |
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I shared the rickshaw ride with another gal in our group. (I need to work on names) |
We got to tour parts of one of the HuTongs,
the home of Mr. Yu and his family.
His house
was 200 or 300 years old depending on who you listened to.
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Mr Yu and Little Yu telling us about his HuTong four directions house |
After the HuTongs, we went to lunch at a really yummy
restaurant and had “real Chinese food”.
Other than having less salt than I’m used to in US Chinese food, it
really wasn’t terribly different. There
were more gristly pieces in the meat, and there were some less-used vegetables,
like lotus root and LOTS more bok choy.
After lunch, we went to the government-run silk factory
and silk mall.
WOW.
We saw the whole silk-making process from egg
to quilt.
It was pretty amazing.
The sales people were well-trained to follow
us everywhere and try to slide us into buying anything we even gazed at.
They were ready to just wrap it and get the
bill ready.
We declined (me with more
struggle than Lashi) and wandered into the back part of the silk mall.
I got a red Chinese dress for Fiona, Antigone
and myself.
Antigone got a little fan,
Lashi got a couple pieces of art (one embroidered and two on silk).
The prices were very reasonable and the
quality far above what we’d find on the street.
(One benefit of super-regulated government)
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Yuan Hou Silk factory and mall - Government-run silk market |
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Silk worm specimens. Each set is only 5 days older than the last. Dang, they grow fast! |
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From the front: double-cocoon raw silk, single-cocoon raw silk, and double, then single cocoons |
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This machine unwinds the soaked single cocoons |
Next, we went to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden
City. It was YEARS of dreaming come
true! I got my degree in Asian History,
and spent two years of that studying China almost exclusively. My senior paper was on “Women in the Chinese
Cultural Revolution”. To be there in
person – I never thought I would. I have
to admit tearing up several times. It
was overwhelming to me.
Tiananmen means “Gate of Heavenly Peace”. It was the area in front of the emperor’s
palace complex, now known as “The Forbidden City”, although the name (given to
the area by the poor class) really originally applied to the entire first
couple rings of the city, not just the palace.
The HuTongs, the Square, etc., all were part of the Forbidden City
because the poor were forbidden to go there.
Tiananmen Square is the largest city square in the world
at 70 hectares (173 acres). It’s
incredible.
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One flippin'-big flower pot |
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In front of Tiananmen Tower |
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The Chairman and Me |
While we were there, something happened that I had been
told about, but had never witnessed.
People stopped members of our group (including my family) and asked to
take pictures with them. Over and over
and over… Antigone handled it very
well. A crowd of curious people even
gathered around George to hear his lecture on the history of the Square and the
Forbidden City.
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A crowd of Chinese gathered to listen to George discoursing on Tiananmen Square and the buildings surrounding it |
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Can't tell you how many times I tripped on these uneven stones. Gotta watch your step on 600+yr old surfaces |
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Random people who wanted to take pictures with my daughter |
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More random people who wanted to take pictures of my daughter. |
We crossed under the street between the open square and
Tiananmen tower (the one with Mao’s picture) and entered the palace complex
proper.
I had no idea how big it
was.
I knew the Son of Heaven,
undisputed ruler of the Middle Kingdom was an audacious position, but his
palace is a couple miles long.
We went
through gate and courtyard after gate and courtyard.
The history is fascinating and I’ll regale
anyone who really wants to know, but I want to move along here.
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Finally touching the Gate of Heavenly Peace |
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Inside one of the outer courtyards (we've already gone through 3-4 layers) |
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Beautiful Forbidden City |
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This place just keeps going!!! |
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Really big lion :) |
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Antigone and Lashi racing across the courtyard |
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Add caption |
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I don't know what this is, but I've started calling it "Santa's team" |
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One of a series of thrones in this place. Unbelievable stuff |
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These very big pots were filled with water as part of the fire-protection system |
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The phoenix image appears over and over and represents the Empress |
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Dragon image also appears frequently and represents the Emperor |
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Pretty canal through city |
Our time there ended WAY too soon. I wish we could have gone all the way to the
end of it, but even after 1 ½ hours of walking, the final pagoda was still
small and hazy in the distance. We had
to turn back. On the way back to the
bus, a teenaged boy in our group got backed into by one of Beijing’s fine
drivers and Antigone made a new best friend.
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Antigone and her new best friend Jaden |
When we got back to the hotel, we were all wiped, but I
was hungry. I asked Lashi what the plan
was. This was his response:
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Nice, guys. I guess I'll just... eat trail mix for dinner. |
Oh well. G’night! Great Wall tomorrow.